Practical field notes

A tile layout blog without the guesswork.

Working methods for tile professionals, designers, and DIY renovators—from the first measurement to validating cuts in 3D.

  • For tile professionals · 9 min read

    How to plan a tile layout and explain it confidently to a client

    A reliable workflow for capturing geometry, choosing visual axes, validating corners, and turning a 3D plan into a clear client decision.

    A good layout is more than a level grid. It must account for the usual viewing angle, narrow edge pieces, grout lines through corners, and what happens around niches or fixtures.

    Making those decisions before the first cut saves time, reduces rework, and gives a clear answer when a client asks why the layout starts where it does.

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  • For designers · 10 min read

    Rhythm, scale, and junctions: validating tile before installation

    Move from an attractive specification to a buildable layout by checking module scale, visual axes, surface transitions, and architectural details.

    Tile on a specification and tile on a real wall are two different levels of design. A 600×300 mm format may feel calm on a moodboard but create a poor strip at the ceiling or break a niche composition.

    A scaled layout lets designers control not just colour and material, but the rhythm people will actually experience every day.

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  • DIY renovation · 11 min read

    How to plan your own tile layout before buying and cutting

    A clear step-by-step guide to measuring, choosing a starting point, checking narrow cuts and niches, and estimating material—without specialist CAD.

    Planning tile yourself becomes manageable when you break the job into small checks: geometry first, then tile and grout, then grid position, and only then material quantity.

    The purpose is not a perfect picture. It is to find difficult areas before work begins: narrow edges, awkward cut-outs, corner conflicts, and rows missing important features.

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  • Materials · 8 min read

    Tile types explained: ceramic, porcelain, mosaic, and clinker

    How ceramic tile, porcelain, mosaic, and clinker differ—and how to match each material to a real surface and use case.

    The easiest way to choose tile is not by a catalogue label but by four properties: water absorption, strength, surface, and service conditions. The same colour may be available in different materials, yet behave very differently on a wall, floor, or terrace.

    This is a map of the main tile families. It does not replace the technical sheet for a specific collection, which should state intended use, abrasion class, frost resistance, slip performance, and installation guidance.

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  • Choosing tile · 8 min read

    How to choose tile for a bathroom, kitchen, floor, or terrace

    A practical framework for choosing tile by moisture, traffic, slip resistance, format, maintenance, and installation conditions.

    The right tile starts with a simple question: what will happen to this surface every day? A bathroom wall gets wet, a hallway receives grit, a kitchen sees grease and stains, and a terrace experiences temperature changes.

    That is why two tiles with the same dimensions can have different intended uses. Compare the technical sheet, surface, format, installation method, and future availability—not just the colour.

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  • Installation · 8 min read

    Tile layout patterns: from straight grid to herringbone

    Benefits, limitations, and preparation for straight, running bond, diagonal, herringbone, and modular tile layouts.

    A layout pattern changes more than the look of a tile. It changes cut count, grout lines, geometry requirements, material use, and installation difficulty. Choose the pattern with the format and room plan, not after the tile has already been purchased.

    This is not a ranking of the “best” pattern. It is a way to match a pattern to a surface. In every case, start with a dry layout or a scaled 3D plan.

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  • Installation · 9 min read

    How to choose tile adhesive by format and substrate

    What C1, C2, S1, S2, T, and E mean, when large-format mortar is needed, and why the substrate matters more than a marketing name.

    Tile adhesive is not chosen by “the more expensive, the better”. It must match the tile, substrate, format, moisture, temperature, and installation method. That is why the classification and technical limitations on the bag matter more than a general label such as “tile glue”.

    In the EN 12004 system, the markings describe useful properties. But the right class cannot compensate for a weak substrate, an incorrect mix, or adhesive that has skinned over.

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